AMC Enthusiast Viewpoints:

Pre '66 cars are not doomed to become outlaws for having been modified. '74 and up cars must have all factory emission control equipment. The AMC Javelin, AMXs, even Hornet hatchbacks, have been reduced to "bear bait" in our contemporary society. No, I would not recommend the Javelin AMX for a daily driver hobby car unless you are a sadist who enjoys "karate talk" from police officers giving traffic tickets. This is a sore vexation to understand how the sportiest AMC cars are taboo targets for attack in the land of amazing gracelessness. So heaven on earth will have all of the exceptionally sporty cars from AMC mothballed, converted to trailer queens or crushed to make new throw away cars? Poop on that. Anyway, as an AMC enthusiast, I see real advantages in doing, driving and enjoying a Rambler Classic/Marlin.

The Classic/Marlin unibody needs to have it's windshield cowling cleaned periodically. Many times people like to park cars under trees thinking that the shade will help to preserve it. However, the tree's shedding will pile up in the windshield cowl to create very undesireable rust rot there; this is part of the car's frame. Ever seen an AMX crushed by a fallen tree? Bummer dude! Leaves and debris will clog the factory drain holes. These are located behind the removeable inner splash panels behind the front tires. Probably half the time, the splash panels have been bent back by road debris, contributing to block off the drain holes also, whereas they did intend to shield them instead. Another problem area is the lower body side unibody channel. AMC used galvanized steel there, but Classic/Marlin owners should become aware of the many unibody drain holes and keep them all unclogged. The rear fender drain holes, underside, behind the rear tires, are usually clogged from small things lost in the "side pockets" inside the trunk. The side to side radiator area frames and the rear side to side channel directly behind the rear bumper have drain outlets also. Some drain holes might be malformed from the factory. The enthusiast should reform them to function as they were designed to do, undoing what may be attributed to hasty assembly. After making sure all the unibody drain outlets are open, they should be inspected for bare metal or rust, if so, then treated and painted. The general idea applies to all AMC unibody cars, except for Metropolitans that did not employ unibody self rinse engineering. The Mets should have strategic drain holes made in their old style unibody channels to help combat rust. Where US made AMC cars were dipped in rust preventing primer, the Met's frame channels should be sprayed internally with rust killer and then paint.

"Hemming Motor News" has a fantastic selection of one of a kind rebuilders for just about anything found on any AMC car. Moreover, there are not many "throw away" parts found on '65 Rambler Classic/Marlins; most everything is rebuildable. The door lock key cylinders have a peculiar drive shaft that should remain liberally coated with grease, and the door latch mechanisms inside the door shells should be slopped with oil and grease. Of course one can hardly do any wrong with a good 'ol oil dropper and grease gun. Petroleum jelly is the "miracle cure" for old rubber parts such as the left foot pedal operated windshield squirter bladder.

The AMC torque tube drive system does what ladder bars only dream to do by applying the torque very near to the car's center of gravity, aka; "reaction point". Don't be scared of the double u-joint; they are not an odd size and are not absolutely annoying (only a little bit) to do when it needs to be done. It doesn't make sense to swap in any other inferior drive system, except to imitate what other enthusiasts do in order to tame their wheelspin monsters? Another exception would be for swapping in a modern automatic overdrive transmission. I think the Jeep Grand Cherokee rear differential may be a good swap in for it's Matador style four link mounts and disc brakes. Chrysler used big suspension bushings there so it shouldn't create lot's of harshness; a problem with ladder bar conversions. The Classic/Marlin unibody is not really strong enough for leaf springs unless reinforcements are made...

I'm not losing any sleep over it, but I shudder to think of Rambler owners taking their pride and joy to "big time" transmission shops to have their trannys redone. The rebuild kit for a Borg Warner auto tranny cost about $120 + fluid. I give you my open invitation; SEND YOUR BORG WARNER TRANSMISSION TO ME!... My price; $500 +parts. You pay shipping (make plywood box, no bellhousing) Approximate two week turnaround. Otherwise you may end up paying about $2500 for some gorilla to rough up your lady. (don't make me tell my nighmarish transmission shop stories)

I can restore rotten AMC gas tanks! SEND YOUR ROTTEN AMC GAS TANK TO ME! ...Sometimes, depending on severity of decay, old gas tanks can be really difficult. I may be overconfident, but I have successfully restored a few of the worst gas tanks of all. First I clean the tank. This can be an unsavory sadistic labor when there is a thick layer of dried gas residue inside; it comes out in chunks that look like... well, guess. Next, I weld all the holes with a small gas torch and flux coated brazing rod. This is nearly a lost art, and a skill tediously acquired after burning many larger holes in wafer thin old metal. Moreover, you will not find many welders out there who will even think twice about welding a gas tank! -BOOM!... yeah, the tank must be thoroughly cleaned. Then I rust treat the gas tank inside and out, clean again and paint with rust preventing satin black. Then several more coats of paint; the tank comes out looking really good. Then I apply gas tank sealer inside. The sealers claim to seal pin holes, but one cannot be careful enough; I'd say braze and use the sealer. Ever had a car that had a leaking gas tank? Spooky; don do it mon. SEND IT TO ME. I'll have to order the sealer kit, so it may take me about one month turn around. Depending on decay, my price $500. Or did I just tell everyone how to do it?

How may I encourage my fellow AMC enthusiasts? These are great hobby cars. I have lots of experience and knowhow from doing many different AMC cars since the mid seventies. I have never owned any other make of car... I have been employed twice as a car mechanic, working on other makes. I like Studebaker's also. AMC's are my favorites. The AMC Metropolitan is the funnest car I ever owned; I had more fun in it than I did in my '69 AMX. I can supply technical info to do AMC auto transmissions. Feel free to Email me with any AMC questions. I adamantly insist we can improve the AMC hobby but we must join together to make a better world of AMC cars for future generations. We must dump the underdog complex. I can't cure AMC disease myself. We must motivate the AMC club leaders to form a restoration authority or guild for judging true AMC restorations. I believe we must do this while the people who used to own the older AMC's are still alive. I would nominate Eddie Stakes and Andre of South Texas AMC. Doug Galvin is a rare AMC expert. Men like these could be consultants to judge AMC cars. They could be consulted to come up with judging forms and criteria. This would improve the quality and respectability of restored AMC cars. This could possibly help to relieve the better AMC examples from the oppression of poverty that stands against worthless improvements. I know. I tried to have my own AMC restoration business. It's not worth it. That's reality. I don't like it. Let's change it. The cars deserve better treatment. Future generations don't need our AMC disease.

Email to rkt@fbg.net